5-7 Feb 02 We departed Puerto Natales at 9 PM on the Navimag Ferry, Puerto Eden. Departing is a funny word for this beginning as we were all marched out at one time. People with cars, people with cabins and people who went economical class all walked in together. Very democratic. We entered the hold of the ship among the cars and trucks and went in line to a huge auto moving elevator and were moved up a deck. Here the three groups were seperated and economical class was shown the luggage packed on the deck. “You will have two locations to bunk and those are noted on you ticket. The top economical is one floor below here through that door and the Inferior location is two floors below”. Guess where we were located? Yes! All the way down! Jerry found a chest high bunk and I received the last one a three high one located just next to the ceiling. We just were two old men trying to compete with those youngsters who rushed down the two flights and held fast. I tried to make them feel bad that they would let someone as old as their grandpa be in this position but they all held fast and volunteered to help me up and down. It was really not that bad because we only used the bunks for a few short hours as the time was spent watching the land slip by or reading and talking in the cafeteria area.

Our first meeting was called and everyone was required to attend. This was a safety lesson and we would also learn how to use the life jackets and the life boats. Fredrico, the naturalist on board led this drill. His first comments were, “ a ferry is the fastest sinking kind of ship and we should all pay special attention to his message. Also we should pray that any sinking should happen further north because we would freeze to death in these waters before we would drown”. We were very attentive although all Fredrico said was with a smileJ

The Chilean fiords with their rocky faces, snow capped peaks and inhabitated shores slipped by in an unending parade and panorama. Many water falls could be seen cascading down the slopes and always on the Eastern horizon were the snow packed Andes. And on two occasions icebergs could be found in the sea. The one case we knew that they came from the same icefields that we saw at Fitz Roy. The total trip up through the islands of Chile were close to 900 miles. Each day brought changes. Changes came in the amount of snow we could observe on the mountain sides and tops. We watched more vegetation glide into view. And of course, it grew visably warmer on the deck. We spent the time watching, reading or talking to other travelers. 200 plus people on the boat and only two Americans. Interesting.

We had one bad crossing that lasted for almost ten hours and that was through the Gulf of Penas and it is in direct contact to the winds of the Pacific while all the other miles were made hidden behind a Chilean coastal island. When the Ferry moved into the ginal 100 miles, a dramatic change occured in the coastline. Towns, houses, boats and industry appeared almost instantly. The southern edge of Chiloe Island marked this boundary to civilization. Fishing boats appeared and increased in number as Puerto Montt, our destination, is a major fishing village. Another visible change was the appearance of fish farms. Raising salmon is very important industry and we saw fish pens and associated apparatus.

We arrived in Puerto Montt at 6 PM and quickly found lodging near the harbor. Besides the harbor and a very large docking area another mound caught our eye. This was a huge stack of wood chips. In Chile, trees are being harvested all up and down the coast. The trees are chipped and sent to Japan for use as chip board. Like along our Alaska and Washington coasts, big trees are falling in record numbers. Also noted is that the Chilean environmental movement is not well organized and cannot much impact such industry action.

8 Feb 02 Today was a travel day. We walked up to the city center of Puerto Montt to find the office of Lan Chile, our airlines, and try to change tickets as ours were booked for the tenth. NO problem and we were scheduled to depart at noon. We arrived in Calama on our way through Santiago aobut four. An Austrian/Australian couple that we met on the plane envited us to share their pickup truck for a ride into the city from the airport. They even suggested a hotel. The Mirador had been used many times by the Austrian as he worked for the company that ran one of the copper mines located around Calama. The one to the north is the largest in the world. We would find a lot of largest things in the world in this area. The hotel is very nice and is very old. Our room was just off a central patio and contained two sinks and two showers. Television with CNN. VERY NICE. We then went down to locate the bus station and find tickets to our real destination in the area, San Pedro de Atacama. Today was so very fast and more modern that we had been. In just a day we had moved from the slow pace of the ferry to the modern rapid movement of the airlines and had flown almost the complete distance up the entire length of Chile. Now for some real slow times again.

9 Feb 02 We departed Calama for San Pedro at 11 AM and were on the bus about an hour and a half. We were the first on the bus and, of course, found a seat right up front. 2 or 3 people came up to me and said something to us in Spanish. I would reply, “No hable Espanol”, they would say something and move off. Finally, the driver came up and said that our tickets were for 33-34 and we should move back to those seats. The bus was then full and only those seats were open. Very foolishly and with as much a smile as could be mustered, wemoved back to our seats. Now we knew that the seats were numbered.

The bus trip to San Pedro was right on schedule and crosses a low range of mountains and major desert areas. The Atacama desert is the driest desert in the world. Both Calama and San Pedro lay in the lowere areas along waterways with the range in between. It is a good pull for the full buses to cross going either way. Calama is the center of government and business for N. Chile and a good sized city. San Pedro is the center for tourism for the area but most of the tourists are the backpacker types although new upper class hotels are being constructed. Calama has nice hotels, brick buildings, paved streets, and super markets. San Pedro has hostels, mud buildings, mud streets and family-run markets. Calama is Chilean in every sense and San Pedro is international and mostly young from all over the world carrying back packs. SO here comes two old boys with rolling suite cases.

The international kids are all great. We must be the grandpas that they would all admire to have becase they were all quite nice. In any case we found a passable hostel, the Don Raul and checked in to this hostel constructed entirely from the mud materials found in the valley area. Even the roof was coated with mud over grass and a wooden sheet. The insides had been lined with paneling and the floors tiled. The units looked just like ALL the buildings in San Pedro. During the next hour we walked the village checking on tours and planned the next 6 days with tours.

The first tour would be out to the Valley of the Moon to visit and observe the sunset. The area around San Pedro is a geologist fantasy. The valley is surrounded by 15,000 foot volcano peaks. It location on the windward side of the volcano area makes receive very little rain. In fact it is the driest area in the world and because of this the plant life is sparse in many areas. The mountain making efforts of the Andes have created, in this small area, landforms and formation of incredible variety. The Moon Valley trip cost $6 and lasted for 4 hours, culminating with a walk up a half mile long sand dune to a high point that allowed both views of the Valley but also of the sunset. The climb was made in ankle deep volcanic sand, then up across the dune that filled the entire valley. The latest youthful invention that could be observed was taking place on the sand dune’s steep slope. That was sand boarding using the large snow boards. Maybe another Olympic event. The sunset was not spectacular but the shadows of the mountains and the black figures highlighted against the setting sun as they journeyed back to waiting vans was a great visual image.

10 Feb 02 The alarm went off at 5:30 AM and we departed soon after for a tour of the Atacama. The minivan picked us up and we headed south into the heart of the western boarder of the desert. One of the salt flats we crossed was huge and was reported to hold, untapped, 40 % of the world´s lithium reserve. The salt flat was a flat expanse with everything white and glaring like in a snow field. Surrounding each of the lakes or salt flats are the residue of millions of years of volcanic activity and erosion. The shapes that we passed were so varied. Canyons made by water from snow melt are deep and jagged and some had water but most did not. Were was water at this time of the summer, a settlement could be found. I can imagine the great filling of these channels each spring as the water from the snow fields rushed to reach the great salt flats of the valleys. YOU see most of the lakes had no outlet to the ocean. Volcanic rock in this region contains many minerals and those are what makes the salty lagoons and flats.

We passed through a number of villages along the return trip. Many of these have existed for thousands of year, even before the Inca. Remains of their agriculture can be found all along the passage that we made. The terraces that we saw were bright green around the villages and many grains and vegetables could be seen growing. Many of the outer locations contained no growth although that could have already been harvested. Some of the terraces were obviously artifacts used by earlier inhabitants in a wetter time.

The day also included stops at salty lakes rich in animal life. One lake was the home of thousands of flamingo. Many of the lakes teemed with minute animal and plant life that provide rich foods for the many migratory birds we saw. One of the animals that we observed in quantity was the scud or sideswimmer. We have a different species in the rivers of America. The desert watch provided a great warm up for our trip to Bolivia. The heat was not too bad but was there, as was the wind. We came back to San Pedro rather drained but found the local cafe and a hot meal and cold cerveza. A real good day.
Cost for the day about $20.

11 Feb 02 Our four wheel drive Toyota arrived at 8:30 AM for the trip north into Bolivia. Our passports where checked and we paid for the 4 days $100 US. We were joined by four others, two were from Holland, Jan and Elise; two were from Germany, Detrick and Jannette. Jan was a fireman from Amsterdam and Elise was a health worker. They had sold their house for a profit and were traveling the world for two years. Detrick had finished a tour in the army and was a final student in engineering while Jannette worked for a computer company. They were on a three week vacation. Jan and Elise are in their 40s and Jannette and Detrick are in their late 20s. We two old boys made up the set and we would grow closer as the time passed. We shared the crowed discomfort of the bouncing Toyota quite well.

Today we would move from the well built roads of the border to the gravel and rock strewn traces of a road through Bolivia. The drive would take us through weird lava formation and along fumerols and geysers. We bumped beside salt laden lakes briming with red algae that would be fed upon by millions of flamingo. A stop beside a hot spring would be made for lunch. Many put on bathing suits and soaked in the warm water. At the evening stop we walked along side the Laguna Colorado. Our walk wash shared by hundreds of llamas that were returning to the settlement for the evening. Each Llama was marked with pieces of colored cloth – probably the brand of each owner. We were close enough to a flock of flamingo to get a great picture.

Along the edges of the Laguna were a number of small springs that flowed into the lake. Each flow marked an increase in the number of birds. They needed the more fresh water for drinking. In one a llama was grazing on the algea. I turned over one of the rocks in the stream and it was full of small critters. Alas, no alcohol and no bottle so no collection. I just knew that in this isolated stream must live creatures that have never been identified or named. These fresh water creatures lived in a world just a few meters long and less than a meter across. Below was the salt lake and death. Only a few of the springs were to be seen. And yet they were here in abundance. I placed the rock back and began the long walk back to the hostel where we would spend the night. The wind was really blowing and we put our a great deal of energy bucking its energy. None of the low growing grasses of the flat land provided even a moments rest. Everything here is built low to the ground to escape that constant wind.

By the time we returned, Oligardo, our guide and chef had dinner. Bolivian spagetti and vegetable soup was on the menu. All was prepared on a one burner propane stove. We carried all things with us. We returned to an unheated room and prepared for bed. The lights came on from 7 to 9 and were run by a gas generator located somewhere in the village. We flushed the toilet with a jug of water poured from an even larger container. I brushed the gravel from the sheets? and prepared for bed. The bed was too short but it was filled with wool blankets that formed a warm cocoon for the night. Detrick had a flashlight that was placed on the spare bed for the journey to the latrine. All of us put that off as long as possible as we waited for the dawn.

12 Feb 02 The sunrise brought us quickly up. No one had slept well. Jerry said, “That surely this was as bad as Mrs. Millers in Australia”. His surety of this has not lessened as the time has gone by. The day before we had traveled over a 15,000 foot pass while around us had towered volcanic cones of every color. Most of the peaks were covered with a crown of snow and ice. The bleak slopes held their own raw, vast beauty. We had slept at over 12,000 feet and three of us had altitude headaches during the evening. Today would bring more beauty and more new sights. And we were very anxious to leave this Laguna Colorado lodging. The laguna is named for the red color created by the algae living in the water. The flamingo flock to feed on the tiny organisms. Their pink colored feathers flashed in the sun as we departed north again.

Our day will be spent driving north on a rocky non road to San Juan for the evening. Today would be the longest driving day. Lunch was eaten at the Valley of the Rocks. We climbed up and around this mass of twisted and strange forms to meet our vehicle in a protected spot below and at the edge of the rocks. All the formations were red, yet they were all made from compacted ash. Where broken edges appeared the rock was white within. I was lucky enough to take a photograph of one of the inhabitants of the rocks, a long tailed rabbit like creature.

The late afternoon found is in Chiquana, the first village we had seen since leaving San Pedro the day before. The locals were celebrating. The time we arrived is the day we call Fat Tuesday. They were celebrating. We missed the parade but were in time for other festivities. Everyone was in good spirts. When walking up to the location of one party, a table draped with green plants that I presumed represented the palms, we were showered with confetti and decorated with garland. Bottles of Huari, the national beer, were everywhere and offered to us. Some where carrying tea pots of the local hot whiskey and water mix. These were offerred. Most of the people had been drinking and were very happy. In a large area, two men were playing a two foot long flute. Others blew whistles. One beat a large drum. When the reached unison, all the participants would shuffle and sing to the music. One lady carried a large flag and she worled in the center. I could not understand the language but the clebration was Christian, although it could have taken place in any pueblo or tipi in the USA. I was sure that the party would last the rest of the evening.

We departed Chiguana to the sounds and sights of the celebration. A few miles along we began to see fields of some crop growing in the arid volcanic soil. We stopped to take a picture and I tried to identify the plant. No success. I still do not know what it is but suspect that it is a relative to lambs quarter. The seed pod grows at the top of a two foot high plant that has the leaf of a lambs quarter. We drove for another hour and arrived at San Juan. We checked into a much nicer Hostel and found running water. It had hot showers that all of us chose not to take. Most of us had not changed money into Bolivianas so we did not have the 5 B for the hot shower. Ah! Cold showers. It takes just one to give one a different perspective on travel. But we were clean. We walked up to a town where all the business were closed but did find one with some Huari’s even through they were warm. They exchanged the beer for Chili money.

We returned to the hostel, found 6 seats and moved them to the sunny side and were joined by Eligardo for a toast to all that we had seen and shared. And we toasted the four countries and the three ages and the four futures of each of the groups. What a wonderful end to the day. Dinner was soup, hot dogs and mashed potatoes washed down by hot tea.

After dinner we walked up to the central part of San Juan. Another Lenten celebration was going on. The people, mostly elderly, were dancing and singing to that same assortment of instruments we had seen earlier. Beer and hot whiskey were also evident. I watched for a short time over the mud fence and was about to take a picture when the drummer came up. He said something and made an X with his drum sticks before pointing away. I took the hint and walked on to the local Catholic church. As we approached a wizened old man came up with a key. We entered the church and observed a neat building with quite and a soft appearance. On the wall were two huge paintings depicting the life of Christ only all the faces were Bolivian. He asked us to make a contribution to the church and we all did. It was a nice stop and he gave us all a great hand shake and a thank you. A nice stop. We had electricity again from 7 – 9 so we prepared for an early bed. This riding and bumping made all of us weary.

13 Feb 02 We all had a great rest. Jannette said that she was sure that Detrick and I did because she hear us. This was to be our last day for the Bolivia tour and we were saved the best day for the last. Off we went and drove for two hours before the mirage of a lake appeared at the horizon. It eventually turned into a great lake of salt and water. Up to the shore of the lake we came and found a causway going across. We took the road but about in the center took a sharp left into the water. For almost half an hour we drove through the water and it splashed a furrow up away from the Toyota. Jan asked me to reach out and get some water to taste. “Was it really salty? Yes it was water and up to 18 inches deep. Finally we reached the shallower end of the lake where the surface was all white salt.

Our stop here was at an island called Pesca or fish for its shape. It was covered with huge cactus that grew to almost 12 meters and live for over 1200 years. The entire island was covered with these pencil shaped forms and all around were the birds that lived with them. All were found on this island in the middle of a salt lake that is the largest in the world. One could just barely make out the land on the edges of the far side of the lake. In the cove of the island was being built a museum to the Island. It was not open but all the wood used for the construction was from the dead remains of the cactus. The highlight of the time on the island was our walk along the trail through the forest of the silent giants.

Off again to the next visit at the Salt Hotel. Yes a hotel made entirely from salt cut from the lake bottom. The sprawling building was mounted on rocks brought from the mainland and, except for the ceiling, was made entirely of salt. The floors were salt, so were the walls. The furniture was of salt. Picture frames were of salt. Lamps were salt. The building was not open but we could take pictures through the glass windows. We ate lunch here on the salt from the back of the Toyota. My shoes still exhude salt as I sweat from the walks in the city and I wash the salt out each night. So different a world and only accessible by such a vehicle. A half an hour drive across the lake and again we are on land. Another half an hour and we are at the office of Oasis, our tour company, in Uyuni , Bolivia. We are done. Detrick and Jannette catch the night bus to La Paz and Jan and Elise find a hotel for the evening. We had our last dinner together and helped Detrick and Jannette catch the buss. Jan and Elise sayed with us until our new Toyota arrived for the 13 hour journey back south across Bolivia from Uyuni to San Pedro. We left at 10:30 PM with a new drive and on a new road.

14 Feb 02 The drive had taken all night. We had stopped at one village to spend a few hours sleeping. Then we headed out along this rock road. I still cannot see how we made the trip in the dark. All the track seemed to blend into the rocks and the brush. So many paths exist that one could imagine the maze that was made. In most places the road is not a road because in wet times the real road would have pot holes and water and the drivers would create a new road beside. In the dark it all is the same and perspective is lost. The driver, Renee, was only confused a couple of times while Jerry and I remained confused most of the time. We arrived in San Pedro at 12:30 PM and found our bus ticket to Calama and boarded that bus at 2:30 arriving at 4 PM. We had reserved a room at the Mirador and that waited. We showered and went across the street to the Bavaria Cafe for dinner. That showere and bed never felt better.

15 Feb 02 We were awakened at 5:30 AM, had breakfast and headed for the airport. Departure at 8:00 AM would take us to Santiago, the Capitor of Chile. We arrived here about noon and found a Hotel in the center of the city. The Europa will be our home until our departure on Tue 20 Feb for Isla de Pascua, Easter Island.

We will give you an up date of our Santiago adventures before departing for Easter Island