HERE IS THE DIARY FROM THE BEGINNING...........
12 Jan 2005
Depart from STL via American Airlines Arrived NYC and boarded Air India about 6 PM.
13 Jan 2005
Am still flying and finally arrived in Mumbai (Bombay) about Midnight. Had arranged with the hotel where I was staying to have a car pick me up at the airport. It was great to have that and the 50 minute drive was taken with a relaxed but tired attitude.
14 Jan 2005
Checked into the Sea Green Hotel off Marine Drive near downtown Mumbai and was in my room at about 2 AM. Hit the sack after a cold shower. They turn off the hot water about ten. Cold is better than anything. Was up by 9 AM as I could not sleep and headed out to the local train station to check on Train tickets that I would need when I journeyed north to Ahmedabad on the 17th. As I walked out of the hotel, a young man, Raju, hit me up to ride in his Taxi. I said that I was off to purchase a ticket and that I would be back and we would talk if he was still there. OK he said and kept walking with me. He finally directed me throught the maize of the station to the place to purchase the ticket. I did make that purchase which cost $22 for the 8 hour trip to Ahmedabad. Ticket in hand, Raju planed the rest of my day and said that the cost would be 800 rupees and that would get me a complete tour of the city. (a little less than $20.) OK... I agreed and away we went.
Driving in Mumbai is an interesting experience for anyone. You move from one apparant accident to another. But no accidents happen as cars, buses, motorcycles, people, dogs, and cows move down city streets in what I call "Chaotic sycronization". Cars shift places in a steady rhythym that alternates from high speed to a slow crawl. Streets that are made for two vehicles to pass will hold five with a motorcycle weaving through the lines of cars. Cars weave to the right or left just inches apart but without hitting. They move in some kind of weird dance and I could not determine how they can do this. Big buses, like bullies force cars to the side as they take the middle out of the road. But the mass of vehicles moves foreward in surges as one would squeeze toothpaste from a tube. One of the largest city in the world, Mumbai is never quiet as the eb and flow goes on at all hours. And I must also say that every driver here and in the rest of India has the Right to honk and beep the horn at will.
We followed that surge and I held on to all the hand and body supports possible. NO SEAT BELT! Things we visited that day were: The Gateway to India, The Taj Mahal Hotel, three rail road stations - Victoria Terminus - Churchgate -& Mumbai Central, Mahalaxmi Temple(Hindu), Jain Temple, Jadj Ali's Mosque, Towers of Silence, Flora Fountain, Horminan Circle, Bombay University, Chowpatty Beach, Malabar Hill, Dhobi Gat where Mumbai laundry is done, and a few others. We visited Raju's home temple that is commerated to Shiva. Wow, was I on overload. Walked over 6 miles that day.
Raju picked me up at 9 AM for an all day trip north to the Sonjay Handhi National Park. We drove through the city that seemed to never end as did the traffic. When finally we reached the beginning of the park, it still was city but here we stopped. The taxi could not enter the park so we stopped and parked under the overpass in a special parking area for just such situations. Crossing over to the park we caught a bus up to the first location for our visit. That was the Kanheri Caves. These caves were constructed around AD 500 by Buddhist monks. Some 90 caves can be found in the immediate area with a bunch of monestary remains above the caves. The largest caves re natural but were then enlarged to create temple sand other rooms. The entire cave locations were hewn from solid rock. We walked up over and around the caves. Some of them contained large Buddha sculptures while others had holes for monks to live. I could imagine the area alive with flowing orange robes and the sound of chanting. And I imagined all the work these places required.
We finally tired of the walking and joined some of the other tourists waiting for the bus to return for the journey back. When we were about to depart, a couple came who had been attacked by a band of four masked men. One bandit had pulled a knife and when the young man resisted had cut him across the shoulder drawing blood. Although both had screamed for help, the hollows of the land had kept anyone from hearing. Raju and I had passed the couple as they sought privacy. The robbers were waiting for them and we all must have passed them along the way. Interesting.
We rode the bus back to headquarters and prepared to visit
the Lion and Tiger section of the park. Upon arrival we discovered that it was
lunch time for all the workers and that we must wait for 2 hours. No problem.
We walked the distance of 1.5 miles out to the road and found a local place to
eat. My first taste of Paneer. Very good. Then back to park for a ride out to
the sanctuary. The hour ride took us through the park and as we did we drove
through two enclosures, one for two white tigers and the other for a pride of
Indian Lions. Captive animals, they are held inside a 30 ft. high fence. But
the young of this group of animals are released into the wild in other parts of
India. A motley place this park helps protect the animals even though it is
nothing more than and drive through zoo.
Back to my hotel and the end of another day. Walked about the same distance.
6.5 miles.
The Second day in India was busy
Walking today to the Gateway of India and will take the ferry over to Elephant Island to visit the caves there. I was awakened late and went out to look at the Indian Ocean from the balcony. All the streets were blocked off and lined for the Mumbai Marathon. So I watched the activity and fortunately the beginning and end of the run were staged just down the street from the hotel. i could see all the runners as they passed. Took pictures of the winner and of the groups as they passed.
When the first part of the race, the super stars, had passed, I walked down to the Gateway to catch ferry. First, however, I made a stop at the Taj Mahal Hotel, one of Mumbai's important historical attractions. There are two sections to the hotel, the old and the new. It seems that one of the Indian Traders had gotten very rich during the late 1800. He wanted very much to be a part of the present society and that was very British. One day he wanted and was envited to attend a function in a British owned hotel. They would not let Indians participate. So he built his own hotel and that became the center for the new Indian rich of the British India. Tata was his name and that name is very important in Indian business. he has a car, a bank, and much other holding his name. The hotel is a wonderful monument to his tenacity.
Caught the ferry over to Elephant Island. That takes about an hour to cover the six miles to the Island. As one walks to the departure area, you are hit by dozens of people hawking post cards, peacock fans, candy, film and pictures. What a mess and they are persistent. The harbor and trip to the Island takes one across a wide open bay that is nasty. All sorts of plastic and other detritus can be seen floating in the water that is also looking very contaminated. I would hate to fall into the water. This was one of my first looks at what will continue to be the very badly contimated water of India. Yuk. And there was no one to yell at.
Arrived at the dock and made the one mile walk to the entrance. More hawkers but not nearly as many as on the other shore. But soon the walk would be lined with stalls holding souvenirs of all shape and design. Lots of jewelry and carvings. Then the ascent began and it was a good walk up hill to the flat area of the cave. Only two big caves are here but they are magnificent. These caves are called Elephant because during the British time there was a huge statue of an elephant at the entrance to the walk. It collapsed and was rebuilt in the Museum in Mumbai.
The caves here were probably started by the same general Buddhist population that produced the caves that we had seen the day before. These caves, however, were taken over and modified by Hindu monks. Many of the statues were modified so that the cave is now dedicated to Shiva of the Hindu. The caves are huge and the largest covers about 130 square feet. Statues of Shiva are three times human size and are intricately carved. Many are still intact. Pillars hold up the roof and divide the room. Wow is this something and carved, by hand, from solid rock.
Walked back down. Bought a few things from the peddlers and arrived back at the dock. No big deal. Walked back to the hotel and took a shower. It was a hot day in Mumbai. Walked around the corner to a cafe. Veggie pizza was all they served. Not bad. I love a steak but these folks seem to cook up fine concoctions. Will be up and out early. First, I made arrangements for a taxi to take me to the Railroad Station.
17 Jan 2005
Off by train to Ahmedabad.
I was excited to ride my first Indian Train but was a bit worried. I had heard
stories about the stations. Not a problem. The taxi driver got me right to the
station. Over charged me a bit but he had had to sleep in his taxi all nite to
help me. Walking into the station is a trip in itself. Every foot of the floor
was covered with sleeping people. I walked through the narrow aisle that was
left free to get to the gate. NO PROBLEM. The gate was well posted and the
train name and number was listed. No train but it soon backed into the slot.
The train cars are all numbered and mine, AC First Class was car number two.
The further down the line the cheaper the ticket. The train left on schedule at
7:15 AM and arrived in Ahmedabad just 20 minutes late. Four meals and snacks
were served along the way and I ate food that I have never seen before. My seat
mate explained what I was eating. This is the first real Indian food that I had
attempted. Not bad for train fare. Arrived in Ahmedabad and caught an auto
rickshaw to the hotel for just over a dollar. Hotel Crown will not win too many
awards but it is home for the next few days.
I received a call from the Conference that I will begin in the morning saying that a car would pick me up at 8:30 AM. I am presenting tomorrow so will hit the sack early. Check down in the lobby for the location of a place to have a beer. OOPS. Gujarat Province is dry. Tea is fine and they make it with lots of milk. Hit the sack.
The next three days will be spent in a conference on Sustainable Development.