The 2007 Adventures of Dr. Bob

Jan 1^st Departed Yangon for Dhaka , Bangladesh via Bangkok , Thailand . This is the story of a day of flying that took me in the wrong direction from Yangon to Bangkok and then to Dhaka . Went to the airport for noon flight from Yangon . Arrived in Bangkok with Bangkok Air, a low fare carrier. No Problems. Upon arrival the 6:30 PM flight with Begin Air or Bangladesh Air was delayed until 10:30 PM . I arrived at 2:30 PM . Begin Air gave me a meal chit to be used at Burger King. It was not enough for a Whopper and fries. And so the story unfolds.

All the way in and beside me sat a fellow with a bad cough. Get the future picture? Flight in is no problem. The meal was OK, curried chicken with rice. The service was fine. All seats are made for little Asians not long-legged fat old men. By the time my luggage came, it was 2 AM ! I was worried about luggage because it had been checked in and had come through three countries. But there it was on the conveyer belt and no problems. Very fine!

I have never made a foreign trip before this with-out the help of The Lonely Planet Guides. And never will again. I had no idea of a hotel. So I went out to the curb and talked to 3-4 people from hotels that were picking up people. The cheapest hotel was $65. WELL! I had been paying $10 in Myanmar . OK? It is now 2:30 AM and I decided on the cheap one. On the way to the hotel, the pick up man is stopping the driver and asking me to confirm staying at the hotel for the entire week. I pleaded that in the morning I would decide. He would give me special rate now if I decided. So we sat and finally in my sweet but firm American OLD male voice that either I get to his hotel now or I would go back and find another. I must have sounded sincere because he left and the driver delivered me to the Asia Pacific Blossom Hotel located out near the airport. This hotel is very far (15 km) from the downtown where all the sights are. So I ended the day by picking up a tourist brochure form the hotel and hit the sack. A long and trying day are these transport days that move me into so many different worlds. Leaving the slow moving Yangon scene, then the confusion of Bangkok Airport and finally the uncertain arrival in Dhaka can fray any ones nerves. Did I say that this is the first day since arriving in SE Asia that I have been able to use my Visa card? NO, Myanmar does not use the credit card in many places and only for amounts over $600. I paid every hotel bill in three weeks with cash. US Dollars they preferred. Of course 19 days was only $190. Not too bad. Hotels not bad either. Thank you Lonely Planet.

Feb 1^st Dhaka , Bangladesh So I slept in a bit this morning and went down stairs to have a very nice breakfast buffet. Lot of good food, coffee and fruit. Very nice. I tarried over the tourist information and would have liked to have gone out to the Sunderbans, a group of islands in the center of the Ganges Delta area bordering India . These islands are a wildlife preserve with many exotic islands and a large number of wild tigers. The shortest trip is 6 days on a boat. Not possible. I have a ticket to India on the 7^th. So I looked for a hotel and found the name of Hotel Razmoni Ishakha. For $31, I could stay in a well advertised hotel near the city center. I found a ride into the hotel and registered. Room was on the 9^th floor. Small room with all the same things that I had in Yangon . AC was on and the room felt cool and damp. I opened the window and unpacked.

On the way in from the airport, I analyzed the city map. Looking out the car window, I could see the traffic. Not a good vision. Then the streets are filled to overflowing with people walking, begging and hawking. So I decided to take a bit of a walk down the local street, one of the main ones. Deducing and evaluating all this brought me to one conclusion, I would not see the city if I was to walk. Public transport means full and meager city busses labeled in Bangla. Not easy. People were kind and, of course, looked at me. I was the only Caucasian in the area walking along the street. One does stand out in this country of dark people. This experience is much like that of being in India .

Then I thought of my need for the India Visa. OK. I had the hotel call for a taxi. Not an easy as it required a couple of request and 45 minutes wait. Interesting! Yes but it will get better later. The taxi driver finally agreed that he would take me to Indian Embassy, wait and bring me back. To the Embassy we drove. We were stopped still three times in a couple of km by snarled traffic but finally made the journey. The Embassy was open but the Visa Section would not open until Sunday.

This was my first visit to a Moslem state so I did not know that their holy day was Friday. So their weekend is Friday and Saturday. Friday everything closes down and Saturday is open but is their Sat. Businessmen in Bangladesh know, then, that they have a business anchor holding them back. They do not work on Friday so they do no business with western countries on that day. Saturday, businesses are closed in western countries as well as on Sundays so they can do no business with western countries. The anchor holding back their business is the four day week they work under. Interesting and this impacts most Moslem countries in some way.

I made the decision. I would hire a car. I went to the front desk on hiring a car to take me on a tour of the Dhaka and the surrounding area for the next two days. They said that they would find me one and he would come to talk price. So he did. The car was fine and the price took a bit of haggling. I had paid $25 for a day in Myanmar and before that in Vietnam . So I had a starting price. I relented at $30 for the day for each of two days. He would arrive at 9 AM the next day. OK, that part was complete. I would see all the important places in this area in two days.

Feb 2^nd Around Dhaka , Bangladesh I am ready for my first sightseeing in Dhaka . The breakfast in the Restaurant is a simple buffet of scrambled eggs, toast, a curry dish, and fruit with coffee/tea and fresh juice.

I would find that most of the buffet was simple, fairly good but usually cold. Cold cereal, cold eggs, cold curry, cold beans, hot coffee. No complaints, it is paid for.

Entering the car (it is a private car), the driver introduced himself in fairly good English. It takes awhile to learn to switch ones ear from Burma English to Bangla English but I listen carefully. And the people are very patient in repeating. I tell them to be very patient, because I am old and am loosing my hearing. It is a good excuse to use anywhere but for me is also true. Off we went.

The first stop was the nearby Baitul Makarram, the National Mosque. I took pictures outside and then requested to enter. No problem. It is a huge, simply built, white structure, with many open but covered rooms. The Mosque is modeled after the rectangular shape of the holy Kaaba in Mecca . Each room is built for certain prayer uses. As we entered, the helpers were placing the long rugs that would be used that day in prayer. Of course, I attracted a few people! The children especially followed easily. They asked me “Your Country?” What else could I say, “ America ”! They all smiled and shook their head yes. Many I would find had relatives in America or knew someone there. No hostility at all. I think my guide may have been worried but he took me all over the mosque. No problems.

Remember through all of this that traffic is horrible and one can go a km in 20 – 30 minutes. Cars turn from two lanes out, cars cut beside, and busses are king. Then there are thousands of rickshaws carrying 1 – 4 people and peddled by a single man. Alongside all these are hundreds of motorized three wheelers all painted green that carry 1—5 people. Have I forgotten the one meter long pull-cart that can hold 5 meters long pieces of bamboo or steel? The pull cart may have one puller man or three depending on the load. When you get used to this chaos, you can add in a horse cart, or a truck (usually entering the city at night. Now throw in the people, who cross at any location and dart in and out of the traffic with ease. The mass of vehicles seem to move freely thought slowly through the city. The new vehicles are scratch free but the older ones show the closeness of the vehicles as they ply the roads of Dhaka . I can only put on my seat belt and applaud the drivers as the hurtle through the city going form a full stop to 30 mph and back down and weaving from lane to lane with the horn going all the time. A wonderful cultural experience this Dhaka driving.

The next stops made were along one of the main roads and for sculptures commemorating major Bangladesh events. We saw Shadid Minar, the symbol of Bangladesh nationalism that commemorates the martyrs of the 1952 historic Language Movement. The Bahadur Shah Park was next and this commemorated the death if heroes from the 1857 revolt against the British. Many were hanged it this spot.

We drove around the Ramna area that was the government center of the long British rule. Here one can find the huge British built structures that still house government offices. Long gone is the British love for order, cleanliness and beauty. The building slip into decay and many are closed but still one feels that ghost wind from the Home Island . In the Ramna area one finds the artistic and intellectual centers for the country in the universities, museums, libraries and art galleries. Dhaka University , the primary educational center for the country is located here along with many private universities. Ramna houses a huge park with a large serpentine lake. The water was low at this dry season of the year, but people fish and some bathe. We had a cold soda and a chicken sandwich. That was very good. The restrooms are not good, but with so many people around, who cares? Just hold your breath and watch for slippery spots. A nickel a pee is the rule.

Lalbagh Fort was the biggest and best spot for the day. The Fort is located below the levy of the Buri Ganga, one of the delta-forming section of the mighty Ganga River group. The structure was built in 1678 by the son of the then Viceroy of Bengal. This fortress made Dhaka a major player in the Mughal control of the Indian subcontinent. Around the Fort is the old city and dates back to 1608. The streets are narrow and filled with workman, rickshaws, carts moving goods, and men hauling heavy loads on their backs. Human labor in this country is cheap and everywhere. Most are poor and uneducated with only about 60 percent literate. Most likely that is a high percent. Children can be seen working everywhere.

We spent quite a time in the Fort with its long walls and fortress like buildings. Inside it is green and the buildings are restored. Green areas fill the spaces that once must have held wooden building for daily use. A huge pool was located on one end. The water is low and a man bathes inside and in front of all. He washes in his old clothing and changes into fresh at the water edge. Clean is better, but I really enjoy the hot water of my daily shower. That water was green and old. In the center fort is a mausoleum with the bodies of the ruler’s two young daughter. He loved his daughters as much as I do mine. Several pictures of building in this fort are found on Bangladesh paper money.

The last stop was just up the road from the Hotel and was not open for the public. The driver entered and requested the Bishop or Rector of St. Mary’s the Catholic Cathedral for the area. This is a new structure built in 1977. Saturday, it would be filled with worshippers coming from throughout the area. The rector opened the simple building. The statues and paintings were familiar and the quiet was soft on my overworked senses. The driver and rector left me alone for a few minutes alone. Later, I talked with the rector for a much longer. He had been to the USA eight times and to Rome twice. His brother had immigrated to the Miami area. Nice man. He invited me back to have coffee. I hoped to do that but found a different form of entertainment. Back to the hotel for the evening and we would depart for the countryside at 9 AM the following day. A good day in the city.

Feb 3^rd Around and outside Dhaka , Bangladesh My driver arrived early and we headed out of the city to Sonagargaon about 29 km or one hour south of Dhaka . Here is one of the oldest capitols of Bengal . It was begun in the 13^th century. A park has been developed around one of the houses that had been saved and restored. We wandered through the rooms with the help of an elderly English speaking guide. He worked for wages that each visitor paid.

Off to the side of the restored house, people were busy setting up booths and staging areas. In the afternoon and on Sunday would be a special celebration of dance and costumes is a Country sponsored annual event. The booths were being stocked by the locals and filled with many goods for local people to purchase. I found two brightly colored jute rugs and some earrings. I bought a set of many different colored earrings. They were placed in a bag. I did not watch and the vendor switched them to all red, white and black. In my travels, this is the first time that has happened. I have found almost all vendors honest. Maybe had to bargain down but honest when the sale was finished. Not a problem! $1.50 involved.

On the way out of the park, I saw two Caucasian faces, the first I had seen in two days. I said hello and found they were from Perth . They had been in Dhaka for a year running the Australian International School . We talked and I shared the books that I had written and especially the one with my friend Joy from Wagga Wagga. They wanted a way to find the books and I shared emails. Norma and Bob Thompson are the names. Norma suggested that I might come and work with science with the kids and teachers. I thought that was fine as I had seen the city. I would be over in the morning if they would pick me up at the Hotel. I gave them the name and we parted with addresses.

Back to the city and to the Ahsan Manzii Museum that is located in the Old City near Lalbagh Fort. The Museum is part of the National Museum system and houses relics of Bangladeshi past. Again a curator who spoke English came forward to share the history for a small price. Everyone must make a living. His government salary would be small so supplementing it with an occasional tourist would be good. And there are not many tourists in Dhaka . I think this country has the worst support system in SE Asia for supporting tourists. I have met only one person this year, a Spaniard, who had been here. Am I foolish. I think not. A bit of lunch at the Museum and then on to the National Museum .

The National Museum is located in the Ramna Area is a five story building filled with a little bit of everything such as stuffed animals, ceramics, cloth, pictures of presidents, dioramas, and on the top floor a new Chinese funded exhibit setting next door to famous pictures of leaders of the world. Abe was there, so was Einstein. A reprint of the Mona Lisa, and art by Monet and Rembrandt. Such an interesting collection.

Now my driver is getting tired. He may have another job because yesterday was a similar experience. So off to the hotel. I had to change money so he took me below the hotel to a money changer. I exchanged $100 as I needed funds for the Visa. I found $60 in Bangladesh Taka and gave it to him. Now he started on me about yesterday was a shorter day and that he had to have more. I said no. He said he must have more. I said no and went to get my stuff from the car. He would drive me to the hotel. I said no and I would not pay more and that we agreed that $30 a day was the price. I took my stuff and he followed me to the hotel. I kept saying a deal was a deal and that he would get no more.

I looked at the Hotel desk manager. He said that sometimes in Bangladesh that it cost more for longer days and more travel. I said a deal is a deal and he would get no more. I might have tipped him but not now. NO MORE. I started to go up the elevator. He was going to follow. I went back to the desk and we all three were shouting. I said that he was the choice of the hotel to drive me and that the hotel was responsible for his behavior. I also said that to call the police would be the best way to solve the problem.

The desk manager asked why I wanted to call the police. I said that the problem could be worked out by the police. Then I went back to the elevator and the Hotel Manager had heard about the problem and came to chase of my driver. Up to the 9^th floor to room 913. Maybe that was the problem? I decided at that moment to change hotels. I called three and settled on the Quality Inn. This hotel is located a number of miles from the other in the Ramna Area. It is nearer the airport and close to the Australian School . I would have breakfast in the morning and move. And on the way stop by the Indian Embassy and apply for the Visa.

I came down later for dinner and, although the staff was quiet, no one said a word. The driver was gone. I packed and planned for the next day. It was not a friendly hotel and the rooms were damp and cold and the whole issue of the car made me mad. I guess taxi drivers are the same the world over.

Feb 4^th Dhaka, Bangladesh At 8 AM I was paid up and off from the hotel. The taxi driver stopped and I asked where the meter was; he said that it did not work and that it cost 300 taka per hour. OK, I wanted no hassle. I told the hotel that I was going to India . No address but America . I told the driver that the first stop was at the Quality Inn. I now have a room # 501. A good, clean and dry room with AC, frig, and TV.

Next stop the Indian Embassy. I arrived at 10:30 AM and got my name on the list. By 12:30 I had completed the application and my Visa would be ready by 11 AM then. I said that I had a bit of a problem and that my plane left at 10:30 on Wed and that I could not be both places. Could I get it a day early. No way. I must wait because it takes 4 days. Wed. would be the fourth day. Please? NO! Please? NO! A Dutch businessman was beside me and next in line. Like most people from Holland he speaks and understands English. He looked and shrugged his shoulders. “Indian bureaucracy”. I left. Now I must change my Begin Airline ticket. Another move of the pawns?

I paid the driver too much and room in a new hotel. Ten dollars more but that I can afford. Remember that guy early that I had noticed coughing on the plan and was next to me. I spent much of yesterday with a cough and now feel real tired and hot. I took to antibiotics and went to sleep. Ate fruit and drank water and never left the bed for the rest of the day. Took more antibiotics later. Time will tell. I hope my bad car driver was blessed with my gift to him. Payback is good.

Feb 5^th Dhaka , Bangladesh . A visit to the Australian International School. Up early, I am better and the cough is eased much. I had breakfast and then called the Australian International School . They thought that I was lost and gone. I had tried to call the school early in the morning but no one answered and surely the school driver was gone to pick me up at the old hotel. I talked to Bob and told him that it was a long story and that I would share that later. But now I would come to the school and plan for the next days.

Wahid, the driver, came to get me. Wallid is the school’s main driver but is one of the go-to guys that can find anything for the school. He is one of those who has the system figured out. And he is a real nice guy. I arrived and met Bob and was introduced to the Deputy Principal, Sylvia Gillett. Sylvia was born in St. Helena, the island in the Atlantic where Napoleon was sent in exile. She married a Scotsman and has two kids and is the strength of this school. She is cool and straight forward and very sure of herself. I liked her immediately. She took me off to visit each teacher in the school and most of the 300 kids. There are about 20 kids per class. Some a bit more than that but on average about that. Bob wanted me to do a science lesson with every class.

Each teacher told me what they were doing in class and I suggested an experiment or activity. One class I could begin that day. So we planned that and worked on lists of materials for the next day. I helped with making lists, ordering materials, finding equipment that I could use in the science locker. Like in America , some was very dusty. And at the last half hour, some twenty five year old and I made dinner plates for the animals at night. We wanted to know what kind of things that we ate that they would like to eat. Each child took a food and placed that on the dish. Teachers made notes for each group of three and we placed all under a plastic basket but covered with a tarp. The teacher was working on food and nourishment. I just wanted to have them know if animals liked the same food.

With all that done, another driver took me to Begin Air where I easily changed my ticket time to 6:30 PM of the same day, Feb 7^th. No charge. Just a bit of a hassle given to all tourists by the agent. No problem.

I returned to the Hotel to spend some time reading an evil Dean Koontz book. I had dinner of Thai soup, tea and an orange. I was too wired to fall asleep so dreams came late. The next day would be fun.

Did I tell you the sad story of no beer made in Bangladesh . No new labels from Bangladesh . I have had no beer since the 31^st. Very hard on my system. And I am sad because I will have visited a country and not added to my beer label collection. SO SAD!

Feb 6^th Dhaka, Bangladesh, Another visit to the Australian International School Wahid came at 8:05 AM and we went to the school. At 8:30 AM , the children and I were hopefully turning over the tarp and the protective covering to find the food gone. The teacher and I went early to check with out the kids. Something had been there. Two of the seven dishes were tipped. The only food left were small parts of grapes with ants clinging to them. Two spots of tea leaves and two dishes of salt. ALL else was gone. Three children had chosen French fries and all that was gone. Everyone was happy that the food was gone.

We took the plates back to the classroom and talked about how all animals need to eat food but some animals would not eat some things. One was tea and the other was salt. We used those and most animals did not. The grapes that were left were eaten and reduced by the ants but were not gone. We teachers figured that mice or some other small animal also visited and probably ate most of the bread, rice, noodles and fish food while the ants cleaned up the sugar and smaller pieces.

The group would plan a study to see if the local bird-scrounge the crow would be picky too. I am sure they will because some came to visit the open window of my 9^th floor hotel. They took bread from the ledge but not apple peal. I shared that with the children.

The next group was going to study the chemical reactions of chemicals on steel wool. The only wool that came back from shopping was stainless steel wool and that was rust resistant. SO we could not do that but we substituted the same chemicals and cleaned the many copper coins that the school had collected from all over the world. Bangladesh had only one small coin a 1 taka and that is made from brass. We used that too. The children discovered that vinegar and salt makes a good copper and brass cleaning agent. Now they were all commissioned by Dr. Bob as chemists that could clean the coins that their fathers would give them and with their mothers help could show them chemical powers. Two groups went away fully charged. It would be interesting to see these 2^nd graders sharing the Dr. Bob experiments with the professional moms and dads of Dhaka .

Next group was in for down the incline grade racing of cars. This is to be related to a transportation unit and we would see what makes a car go down hill better than another. The slanted board was assembled. The cars held by each child. And we placed each on the board and wished it happy journey. Well an interesting problem. Most teachers had never done this and just gave the kids a care. They tried none out. Most of the cars were electrically operated and only rolled with a battery. Of the 15 to 20 vehicles, only three rolled off the meter long board or would roll when pushed. The one that went the greatest distance was a small Hot wheels type car. Sylvia went looking for a car and found one that really rolled. The teachers were embarrassed but want to go again tomorrow. OK. We had ramp and were ready.

Finally, we were going to dissect a heart with the older kids, seven to eight . In the morning Wallid went across the busy street to the market and brought the organs of a small lamb. He showed me proudly his purchase. I looked. OK, Trachea, esophagus, lungs, liver, gall bladder, fat, part of the stomach. NO Heart. So he and I walked back to the market. I could have been killed jay walking but was not. We found more viscera and purchased three small lamb hearts. Now we had three hearts. One extra.

Those hearts sat in the refrigerator until 1 PM and the kids helped me cut up the heart. I went through all the other organs and then cut open the heart and we looked for the chambers, arteries and veins. They knew much and were excited about seeing this. I cut most but had four help finish filleting it. Then all were allowed to touch the various parts. Most did but like in America some would not.

I did this with two groups, each taking close to an hour by the time we washed up the lamb blood. All the meat was washed and taken to the refrigerator. Tonight the food would be used by Wallid and his family. Nothing is wasted, especially protein. It was a good day. I arrived home at 4 PM . It is 9:30 PM . I have eaten but spent 5 hours sharing my days in Bangladesh .

Feb 7^th Finishing with the Australian Elementary School and Depart Dhaka for Kolkata , India . Wahid came by just before 8 AM and picked me up from the Quality Inn. I packed everything and had my luggage for storage in the car. We arrived at the school and I prepared for teaching that day. I tried to get on the Internet but was down. No problem.

The first two groups of seven and eight year olds that I was to work with were experimenting with the affects of liquids on solids. We placed the liquid (Vinegar, oil, water, Coke, and alcohol) in a container and poured a solid such as baking soda and corn starch. The children had never made a chart so that was another new teaching experience. They learned much as none could accurately recognize a dissolving process. We did well in moving that along. Each class took an hour and we kept an aide running to the bathroom washing cups. No room has a sink in it and all are quite small rooms. The kids did great and I always left with a loud: “Thank you, Dr. Bob!”

Immediately after that Wahid took me to the Indian Embassy to pick up my visa. There was a crowd of people. I pushed my way to the front of the line and the guards let me in. No problem. I went to the guard in the 2^nd floor visa office and showed him the visa receipt and he took me right into the visa room. The young lady who had refused me looked up and smiled. She recognized me immediately and handed me the passport. I thanked her for the trouble and departed. Walking back out through the crowd, I returned to the car and we headed back. Wahid asked me why I had gotten through so fast. He said that Bangladesh people may take a week to do this. I said that I was big and that I pushed. I also said that I am sure that light skin color made a difference. Right then at the light, a hawker came up selling books. One was a Sydney Sheldon pirated issue. I asked the price and was give 550 taka. He whispered 100 taka. By the time I got ready to counter offer, the light changed and we moved. He said too much. 100 taka better! I said to him the color of my skin helped me in the Embassy and hurt me in buying because every one charges light skinned people more. He grinned and laughed at the comparison.

A slight lunch break and I taught the toughest class of the three days. I sat 5 balances, some rocks and a container of teddy bear counters in front of 15 three year olds who had never seen a balance. And I had never been in front of three year olds for a long time. I sweat and was nervous. We messed and I worked with on concept word and position of the balance. A half hour flew by two and maybe three could make the balance even and would confirm that it was even. No heavy or light or counting or anything. I then was talking to the teachers and upon looking down noted that every child was within arms range of a balance and all were adding items to them. Wow! In a half hour, the balance became a friend. The teacher, Zenia is a great model and so patient. I would want her with my grand kids. I do know that great teachers shine to people who meet them the first time. It is the same in any school in the world. These teachers are all Bangladesh but I have met the match for of them in one school or another in and around Edwardsville , IL

I thought that was my last class, but OH! NO! In came Sylvia asking if I wanted to race the cars. You remember from yesterday that the car picking teachers had not done so well. They had rummaged and prompted the children to bring cars from home. The children were ready. We raced 30 cars and I proclaimed a winner who won with a McDonald’s give away racing car. I think we should notify Detroit that an American car won. Although I do hesitate because I am sure that it was made in China . Another look at the world of sales and racing?

I returned to the office and made a cup of tea and am finishing up my daily log. I have taught science to about a hundred kids this day and am ready for the airport trip that I will take in a few minutes. My time at the Aussie school has been fun. I have been able to use touch so many children. I feel good about all the lessons. Like any group of youngsters, they became wound up with the physical acts of the activities. Exciting experiments they were. Only a couple of kids were not behaving and (Of Course) they were boys. Behavior problems are simple and the biggest problem according to Sylvia is punctuality. Parents do not get kids to school on time. Every morning a quarter of the children straggle into the room in some classes. Maybe the teachers are not hard enough on the parents to and ignore the early time in terms of rigor. Sound like your school? I am finding that schools are schools are schools, the world over. I have about an hour of video that I will share later when I can edit and add some sub titles. Such fun. Syvia wants a new video camera now. She learned to use mine.

I am off to Kolkata and will finish this tonight at the hotel in India . Such a fun day.

Some thoughts on travel in Bangladesh